Infrared post-processing
Okay ... so FYI this is sort of my niche. If anyone has any questions about post-processing your infrared images maybe I can shed some light (oh ha ha) on the subject.
~ J
~ J
Tags: Infrared
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Jamie on -
Have any of you ever shot 120 IR? My dad just ordered some plus a red filter for his Rollei so we can play with it, but I've always shot IR with 35mm and a built-in meter. I'm sure the film and filter will probably come with exposure suggestions. However, I've learned through experience with 35mm IR that I get better results when I don't follow the included suggestions.
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Permalink Reply by Joey Goldsmith on -
Didn't mean to leave you hanging so long. I've just been busy.
I've not personally, no. My photography knowledge (and skill) is pretty much limited to digital photography. Some of the film aspect I understand but have very little experience with.
I'd like to see the results of your play time with the 120 IR.
~ J
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Permalink Reply by Jamie on
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Hey, no problem! My dad (and the camera and film) are in Dallas so it'll be awhile 'til I get to play.
In the meantime I've decided to bite the bullet and order some of the less-sensitive Ilford IR to test as well. Maybe it's not as bad as I remember--there's always the possibility that I'm an IR snob! :D
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Permalink Reply by Anne Meredith on -
I am just starting to look into taking IR photos. I have a Nikon D50 and thought about the R72 filter and that is about as far as I have gotten. Do you have any pointers on this subject for beginners? How much post-processing is done to get images that look as cool as yours that are posted? I have seen a variety of images from basic black and white to vibrant colors. How do you create these images?
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Permalink Reply by Joey Goldsmith on
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The first step is to capture the images using an IR pass filter like the R72. There are others but I like the R72 ... creature of habit.
Once you acquire that, I can take you through the rest but the short version in steps is as follows:
* Set up the D50 for exposure ... will be quite different from shooting regular shots in the daylight. S-1/25, f/5-7, tripod, ISO-800 (Noise Ninja or lower ISO is preferable) and these settings will vary.
* Set custom white balance with filter on ... against well-lit greenery.
* Compose your shot with the filter off ... remember your focus although the camera will meter with the filter on.
* Screw filter on.
* Shoot in RAW+fine just in case.
.... PP ....
* RAW conversion
* Levels adjustment
* Swap red and blue color channels in the channel mixer (optional).
* Tweak to your desire. Dodge/Burn, etc.
You can also go with monochrome. Sometimes the image just feels better that way but you can judge that for your self.
Subject matter really depends on what you enjoy too but high-contrasty stuff mixed with greenery that gives off the hottest (whitest) phosphurs work the best IMO. Statues, buildings, stonework - all surrounded with greenery ... you get the idea.
Thanks for the compliment by the way.
~ J
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Permalink Reply by John Adkins on -
Hey Joey,
Don't know if you have any experience with this or not, but I'm having one heck of a hard time getting my D300 to take a proper White Balance reading with the filter on. I'm guessing that the CMOS sensor it has is protected a little more than previous Nikon models. I never have a problem with my D70, so currently, I just use it to take infrareds. Ever fooled around with the 300?
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Permalink Reply by Joey Goldsmith on
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I think we can assume that the D300 is about as responsive as my D80 ... which is not very in the near IR spectrum, lol.
In fact there's only one photo that I've taken with any success with my D80 in IR and that's this one. Of course it's the only one I've put forth the effort with my D80 too.
I had to use a 30-second exposure at ISO 200 and thank God the wind was as still as I've ever felt it that day. Man it was hot outside! Getting the WB correct I had to do the same thing ... so yeah it works but it takes some extra effort. I know that in the D200 there's a funky hotspot thing that occurs during exposure and that's largely the reason why you don't ever see any IR images from non-converted D200's.
I've not done enough research on the two to tell you if the sensors are similar, but you may get the same thing going on with the D300 if they haven't changed sensor technology since.
If you want to improve your IR shots at all I would almost retreat back to the safe useage of the D70 and shoot in RAW. .... or maybe even invest in "the operation".
I'm near broke so I'll stick with my old school ways with the D50 and Hoya.
Love, Peace and Chicken Grease.
~ J
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Permalink Reply by Jamie on
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Not the most intelligent-sounding adjectives, but WOW! Nice image!
Related to IR film:
I came across an IR film discussion on a forum where the poster was asking for help with thin, flat negatives. He wanted more contrast. Most of my college class encountered this same issue, so I asked him what ISO he was shooting at. His reply: 3. I know he's using a Hoya 72 red filter, which will require more exposure. But what on earth am I missing to rate IR film from 3-12? And I've seen more than one discussion where people who have years of IR experience (or at least say they do) rate IR film from 3-12. I've always shot Kodak HIE IR with a #25 red filter at 400, bracketing two stops either way, and have been dead on with exposure and contrast. It's goofy, but this has me totally befuddled. Am I a moron??
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Permalink Reply by Joey Goldsmith on
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Taken from lifepixel.com ...
Deep BW IR (equivalent to Kodak Wratten 87c / 830nm). Best for black and white infrared photography with best contrast and tonal range. Skies look darker and foliage looks brighter than other filters. Color IR is not possible in most conditions. *Some cameras do require very thin filters that do have a little visible light leakage.
.....
The filter to me is really going to determine what type of light you allow to pass and greatly affect the contrast. The Hoya R72 filter is the "standard" but for film these other choices seem to do more for what you're looking for as far as better contrasting black and whites. It cuts the transmission of IR light closer to true IR instead of the Hoya's 720nm pass.
~ J
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Permalink Reply by Jamie on
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I figured these guys were having problems with contrast and exposure because of the filter they were using, so I'm glad to know I'm not losing my mind! I just couldn't understand why they'd use a 200 speed film with such a dark filter and then shoot the film at an ISO of 3-12. So from the info you just provided it sounds like if they're shooting film, especially a slower one like the Ilford 200 or Efke (the manufacturers suggest ISO 25), then they need to back off on their filtration.
When you say the Hoya 72 is the standard, do you mean for digital IR? I'd always thought the #25 was the standard for film. At least, that's what I've used for the past 13 years and had very nice results. I've always used the "stronger the light and weaker the haze" method to get dramatic results. Never considered using a stronger filter because of exposure issues.
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Permalink Reply by Joey Goldsmith on
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Well the #25 is basically a red filter ... meaning it's tinting the image red instead of doing it's job of blocking all light in the spectrum with the exception of infrared, which is actually what we're trying to grab. The Hoya R72 is a "near" infrared pass filter that will block out any and all light below 720nm (R72). I say it's the standard and yes it is ... in digital. I don't have any experience with film IR so to say it's a standard there might be misleading. I will say that the science behind the filter remains the same. The IR light will pass through although you may not see it. Slap the R72 on the Nikon D50 or D70 and notice ... the auto-focus still works. It's reading light that we cannot see with the naked eye. It's basically "invisible" light.
The Wratten filter has a lower tolerance for IR pass and allows light a little closer to the IR-only spectrum. In fact if I'm not mistaken ... the filter on close inspection is rather green in color, not red ... although it may appear at first, pitch black.
I like the R72 because you can get the extra light needed to pass through for false color. Which IMO is just way too f*ing cool to switch to anything else. ;)
There is probably a much better explanation on www.lifepixel.com
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